How to Do a Pigment Draw Down (and Why It’s a PMU Artist’s Secret Weapon)
In the world of permanent makeup, pigments can be sneaky little things. They might look one way in the bottle, another way fresh out on the skin, and something completely different once healed. That’s where pigment draw downs come in - your best friend for getting to know a pigment’s true personality before it ever touches a client.
What is a Pigment Draw Down?
A pigment draw down is exactly what it sounds like. You “draw” a small amount of pigment onto a white surface (like a pigment ring card or mixing pad) and drag it down so the pigment thins out as it goes. This simple test reveals the mass tone, mid tone, and base tone of the pigment.
Here’s what you’ll see:
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Mass tone – This is the full-strength colour straight from the bottle. Think of it as the pigment’s bold first impression.
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Mid tone – The middle section of your draw down, where the pigment is a little more diluted. This is often closest to what you’ll see in healed results.
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Base tone – The faintest end of the draw down, where the pigment is most transparent. This reveals the underlying hue (cool, warm, or neutral) that will peek through as the pigment fades over time.
Why Are Draw Downs So Important in PMU?
In permanent makeup, colour choice isn’t just about what looks nice. It’s about how the pigment behaves in the skin and over time. A draw down can help you:
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Spot hidden undertones before working on a client.
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Choose the right pigment for different skin tones and undertones.
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Predict how a pigment will fade and heal.
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Compare similar shades from different brands side-by-side.
Without a draw down, you’re basically working blind; and in PMU, that’s not a cute look.
How to Do a Pigment Draw Down
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Grab your tools – You’ll need the pigment, a clean cotton tip, small dish of water and a white card.
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Place your pigment – Put a small dot of pigment near the top of the card. Dip the cotton tip in the water.
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Draw it down – Using your cotton tip, colour the pigment back and forth and down the page, letting it naturally fade as it thins out.
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Observe – Look for the three tones (mass, mid, base) and take note of what you see.
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Record it – If you’re testing multiple pigments, label them so you can refer back later.
Final Tip
Doing draw downs for every new pigment in your kit is a small step that saves you from big headaches later. Plus, they look super satisfying so if you’re feeling extra, film it for your socials. Your fellow PMU artists will thank you.