Alright beauty pros, let’s get into it – the lamination showdown that’s been brewing behind the scenes: Thioglycolate vs Cysteamine. It might sound like a chemistry class gone rogue, but understanding the difference between these two active ingredients is the key to choosing the right lash or brow lamination system for your clients (and keeping those brows fluffy and fabulous without the frazzle).
So, grab your tint brushes and a snack, we’re breaking it down Browshop-style.
First up: What are these ingredients?
Thioglycolate and Cysteamine are both chemical agents used to break down the bonds in hair (aka the disulphide bonds) so we can reshape them, ie. lifting lashes or slicking brows into place. They're both the “perm” part of the lamination equation, but they go about their business very differently.
Let’s meet the contestants.
The OG: Thioglycolate
Thioglycolate (also seen as ammonium thioglycolate or TGA) has been around forever.. like, 80s-perm-era forever. It's the more traditional, tried-and-tested agent you'll find in heaps of brow and lash lamination systems.
Pros:
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Strong & fast-acting: Gets the job done quickly. Great for coarser, stubborn hair types.
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Reliable results: It’s predictable. You know how long to leave it on, and you know what you're getting.
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Widely available: Most brands use it, so there are more options and price points.
Cons:
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More aggressive on hair: Can be drying or damaging if left on too long or used too frequently.
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Odour: Not exactly a spa-like aroma. Think salon nostalgia... mixed with eggs.
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Not ideal for sensitive clients: Some clients might react to it because it’s a stronger chemical, after all.
The New Kid: Cysteamine
Cysteamine is like Thioglycolate’s gentler, more modern cousin. It's an amino acid derivative that also breaks bonds, but in a more lowkey way. Basically, it’s the quiet achiever of the lamination world.
Pros:
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Gentler on hair and skin: Lower chance of damage or breakage, making it a great option for frequent lam lovers.
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Better for sensitive clients: Fewer reactions, less redness, and often less stink.
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Longer processing window: It works more slowly, which gives you more wiggle room for application without risking overprocessing.
Cons:
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Not as strong: May struggle to lift coarser or resistant lashes/brows, or may need longer processing.
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Takes longer to work: You’ll need to set aside more time in your appointment book.
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Can be pricier: The technology is newer, and brands using Cysteamine tend to sit at a higher price point.
So which one's better?
Here’s the thing: neither is “better,” they’re just different tools for different jobs.
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Working on a client with coarse, thick brows or lashes that haven’t budged since birth? Thioglycolate is your ride-or-die.
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Got a sensitive client or someone addicted to monthly lifts who can’t afford damage? Go for Cysteamine.
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Running a busy salon with back-to-back bookings? You might lean towards Thioglycolate for the faster processing.
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Want to position your services as more gentle, skin-loving and bougie? Cysteamine will suit your vibe.
Lastly..
You don’t need to pick a side forever. Many artists stock both and customise based on their client’s hair type, skin sensitivity, and frequency of treatment. It’s all about knowing what’s in your kit and using it like the seasoned brow boss you are.
Still not sure which one’s right for your clients? Or want to see what’s in stock? Head over to our lamination collection and we’ll help you suss out your perfect match.
Laminators, assemble.