If you've ever turned a bottle of PMU pigment around and spotted a string of numbers starting with "CI", you're looking at the Colour Index (CI) numbers. But what do they actually mean—and why should you care?
Let’s break it down, Browshop style. 👇
What Are CI Numbers?
CI numbers are a universal coding system used to identify colourants—whether they’re found in cosmetics, tattoo pigments, food, or textiles. In the world of permanent makeup, CI numbers are a key to understanding what ingredients are in your pigments, and whether they’re organic or inorganic.
This knowledge isn’t just for the science nerds—it directly affects how your pigments behave, how they fade, how they heal, and how they interact with different skin types.
Organic vs Inorganic Pigments (Yes, It Matters)
The big distinction with CI numbers comes down to this:
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CI numbers BELOW 77000 = Organic pigments
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CI numbers 77000 and ABOVE = Inorganic pigments
Organic Pigments (CI < 77000)
Organic pigments are made from carbon-based molecules, often derived from petroleum or plant sources. They’re known for being vibrant, long-lasting, and highly concentrated.
BUT—they also have a higher risk of shifting in colour over time (like turning pink or orange), especially on oily skin or when exposed to certain laser wavelengths.
Inorganic Pigments (CI ≥ 77000)
Inorganic pigments are typically made from mineral compounds like iron oxides and titanium dioxide. They’re more muted in colour and tend to heal softer and more predictably. They also carry a lower risk of unexpected colour shifts, making them a popular choice for more natural-looking PMU results.
Common CI Numbers in PMU Pigments
Here are some of the most common CI numbers you’ll spot in your pigment bottles:
Inorganic Pigments
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CI 77491 – Red Iron Oxide
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CI 77492 – Yellow Iron Oxide
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CI 77499 – Black Iron Oxide
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CI 77891 – Titanium Dioxide (used for lightening or opacity)
These are your go-to minerals for brows, eyeliner, and camouflage pigments.
Organic Pigments
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CI 21110 (D&C Red 17)
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CI 51319 (D&C Violet 19)
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CI 77266 (Carbon Black) – Note: while carbon black is technically an inorganic pigment by number, it behaves like an organic due to its intense concentration and performance.
These are often found in lip pigments and some liners where vivid, punchy colours are needed.
Why Should You Care?
- Knowing your CI numbers can help you:
- Make informed decisions about pigment choices
- Anticipate how pigments will fade or shift over time
- Customise your pigment mixes for different skin types
- Educate your clients with confidence
And in an industry where healed results speak louder than marketing claims, this kind of knowledge seriously sets you apart.
Finally..
CI numbers aren’t just tiny print on a label—they’re the key to mastering your pigment game. The more you know about what you’re implanting into the skin, the better your healed results will be.
So next time you pick up a bottle, flip it around and see what’s inside. Your pigments have a story to tell—and it starts with those two little letters: CI.