If you're a permanent makeup (PMU) artist, you know that choosing the right needle can make all the difference between a good result and a great one. But with so many configurations out there (round liners, shaders, mags) it can feel like a bit of a minefield.
So let’s break it down. Whether you're new to PMU or just need a refresher, here’s a guide to the most common PMU needle configurations and what they’re best used for.
Round Liner (RL)
What it is: A round liner needle is made up of multiple needle points grouped tightly together in a circular formation.
What it’s best for:
Round liners are perfect for creating precise lines, crisp borders, and detailed work. Think hairstrokes, lip line definition, eyeliner, and fine detailing. The tighter the grouping, the more concentrated the pigment, which is why RLs are your go-to for definition.
Pro tip: Smaller configurations (like 1RL or 3RL) are ideal for ultra-fine lines and precision work, while slightly larger ones (5RL or 7RL) offer more coverage with still-sharp edges.
Round Shader (RS)
What it is: Like the round liner, round shaders are also grouped in a circular formation—but with slightly more space between each needle.
What it’s best for:
These are great for softer shading, lip blush, and areas where you want a more diffused or blended pigment deposit. RS needles offer a gentler application compared to RLs, which is perfect for clients with sensitive skin or areas requiring less saturation.
Pro tip: Ideal for building up colour gradually and layering pigment for a soft-focus finish.
Magnum or MAG (no, we don't mean the ice-cream)
What it is: Magnum needles are arranged in two stacked rows (like a zig-zag) and fan out in a straight or curved line.
What it’s best for:
Coverage. Mags are your go-to for shading larger areas, ombré brows, areola work, or scalp micropigmentation. They deliver a lot of pigment quickly and evenly, which helps with time efficiency and even healing.
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Flat Magnum (FM): Needles are stacked in two rows, flat on top of each other. Great for solid fills and heavy shading.
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Curved Magnum (CM or Soft Edge Magnum): Has a rounded edge for a softer, more diffused effect which is perfect for gradients and more natural results.
Pro tip: Mags can be more traumatic to the skin if not used correctly, so pressure and technique matter. Always be mindful of the client’s comfort and skin response.
Needle Diameter & Taper
While we’re at it, don’t forget that configuration isn’t the only thing to consider—diameter and taper matter too.
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Diameter (e.g. 0.25mm vs 0.30mm) affects how much pigment the needle carries and how bold the result is.
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Taper refers to the length of the needle tip; a longer taper offers more control and a softer pigment deposit, while a shorter taper delivers more pigment quickly.
Choosing the Right Configuration
Choosing your needle comes down to:
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The technique you’re performing (e.g. hairstrokes vs shading)
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The area of the face or body
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Your personal style and preference
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Skin type of the client
It might take a bit of experimenting to find your favourites, and that’s totally normal! The more you understand your tools, the better your results will be.
In conclusion..
Needle choice can make or break a PMU procedure. Knowing your configurations and how they behave gives you the confidence to customise every treatment, improve healing outcomes, and elevate your artistry.
So the next time you reach for a needle, think beyond just the number and consider the configuration, diameter, taper, and what your client's skin actually needs.
Your results (and your clients) will thank you for it.
Want to see these needle types in action? Head over to the Browshop Academy where Emma from Blush breaks it all down.